Yosemite Valley must surely be the Jesus Christ of wild places. It gave its life so that other natural places might have a chance at eternal salvation. In the valley, traffic jams and scarce parking are common problems. Shuttle buses are available to keep traffic and air pollution to a minimum. Have a pizza and a soda, do some shopping…it’s all there.
The silver lining to this sacrifice is that if you walk 100 yards from the road anywhere else, you find virtual solitude. I have found this to be true time and again even along Yosemite’s designated roadside stops. One day earlier this week, I visited the park and learned this lesson once again.
The calendar says autumn, but a spate of recent rains gave the Merced River and the various valley falls the look of spring. Bridalveil Falls and Yosemite Falls were performing in full high-country runoff splendor. Even the wispy sinew of Ribbon Fall twisted delicately in the wind tucked in its nook next to El Capitan.
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On the road to Glacier Point, I parked at the Taft Point/Sentinel Dome parking lot. After a 15-minute level walk, I reached the broad granite expanse at the top of Taft Point. A few more steps past huckleberry oak, mazanita, and the occasional Jeffrey pine, Taft Point dropped away – one step to the valley 3,500 feet below. On the left, Cathedral Spires and El Capitan. Straight ahead, the Three Brothers. On the right, Yosemite Falls. All were visible from a single viewpoint, in full relief, and all were below where I stood.
In an hour there, I saw perhaps 15 people.