Two weeks after 9/11, I boarded a plane bound for Kathmandu and a trek to the Everest region of Nepal. My sister, Christine, had been there before, and had developed a relationship with an outfitter there with whom we would stay while in Kathmandu. In their exchange of pre-trip emails, Shankar suggested that we come a month earlier to avoid the influx of trekkers that come in October. While the Solo Khumbu region might be quieter then, there was the risk that clouds from the waning summer monsoons might obscure our view of the mountain. When Christine asked me about going early, I said that, while I love solitude in the mountains, I would sit in a sold out Yankee Stadium for a clear view of Everest.
Fast forward to several days into our trek. On the last steep climb up to Namche Bazaar, there is one spot with a narrow view of the very summit of Everest peeking over the Lhotse/Nuptse ridge. I looked up in amazement and pointed it out to a descending trekker who had spent the past two weeks in the region. “That’s the first time I have seen the mountain,” he told me. Thank God we waited.
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After the first couple of days of our trek, the weather was perfect and we were treated to great views of Mt. Everest from a number of locations. But from the outset, we knew the best view, conditions permitting, would be from the summit of Gokyo Ri. Finally, one icy morning in the village of Gokyo (15,500 ft.), we left at sunrise for the 2,000-foot climb to Gokyo Ri and our hoped-for view. I was pleased at my strength on the steep climb to this elevation, and even more pleased at the reward awaiting us there. Calm air a warm temperatures greeted us atop Gokyo Ri. The view of Everest was clear and magnificent. An occasional small wispy cloud would appear, then dissolve, as if to add a bit of magic to the view.