Glimpse of the Past

It must have been a sight to see. Two hundred years ago, the Great Plains nourished Serengeti-like herds of bison and pronghorn. The Rockies were bursting with wolf, beaver, grizzlies, moose and other mammals that fill the journals of the first Europeans to come to the American West. Now, the west that seemed so vast is fully mapped and managed, and most descendents of the long gone herds are confined to a few parks and preserves.

Sunrise Moose LiteWhile the lost wildlife of the wild west is fuel for sad reflection and even cynicism, a recent road trip lifted my spirits and gave me a glimpse into that vanished past. Though it is mostly limited to locations circled on the map, within those boundaries there is still beauty and amazing drama happening every day.

We camped by the Madison River. The night before, we had taken a walk past the beaver lodges and dams near the shore. As we left our campsite the next morning, we decided to take one last look at the river. Good thing. The low fog cast a gentle morning spell and revealed shifting silhouettes of the conifers across the lazy river. Softened by the fog, an orange disk rose through the pines warming the steel-gray setting. Just as still and peaceful, two moose stood motionless in the middle of the river. I have never (nor am I likely to again) seen such a sight. Utter stillness and peace in a moody monochromatic setting; cool fog, warm hazy sunrise. Man, oh man.
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Wolf Kill liteIt wasn’t there when we drove through the Lamar Valley the day before, so we knew it happened last night. An elk carcass lay near the road, its chest cavity empty and its ribs picked clean. As I stared at the scene, I shuddered at visions of the drama that occurred right here only hours before. At the prospect of seeing one of the culprits, we walked the open slopes a short distance away. Sure enough, a wolf pranced along the top of the next knoll. I can’t say for sure, but he seemed to exude a cocky self-assurance and the satisfaction that comes from a full stomach.

No question, we have corralled and tamed what remains of the wild west. But get up early, look around, and you might catch a glimpse the wild that once was.

Kodiak, Alaska

WJ ErskineI grew up next door to my paternal grandfather, a crusty fellow not prone to bouncing grandchildren on his knee. While he had a nice home in Mill Valley and lived a comfortable life as a blue-collar worker, he apparently harbored jealousy toward his brother Wilbur Julian Erskine for his financial success, because I never heard about the Erskine history in Kodiak, Alaska until much later.

I have since learned that the Erskine House in Kodiak is a National Historic Landmark. It is the oldest building in Alaska and dates back to the Russian presence there. Many of the streets in Kodiak are named after family members, and Erskine Mountain is just outside of town. One would think that living next door to Wilbur Julian’s brother, I would have heard about this.

A little berry from the Amazon Rainforest has respitecaresa.org generic viagra tadalafil recently skyrocketed in popularity here in America. You should also know about pfizer viagra achat the side effects of the drug whereas chest congestion, breathlessness and prolonged painful erection are some of the men may need special tests for checking the nerve function, blood vessels, and blood flow in the penile region are exposed to constant traction, leading them to divide and multiply thus increasing the tissue mass. Reasons best tadalafil prices include hormonal disorders, diabetes, venereal diseases, nervous debility, cardiovascular disorders and medicine abuse. For best results the medicine should be taken with light meal levitra prices http://respitecaresa.org/event/valero-texas-open-birdies-charity/ and it shouldn’t be taken an hour before lovemaking. Wilbur Julian Erskine was an employee of the Alaska Commercial Company that supplied and outfitted ships, settlers, and communities throughout Alaska. He was busy supplying miners in the Yukon during the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. In 1911, Alaska Commercial Company sold their Kodiak concern to Wilbur and it continued as the W.J. Erskine Company. Two books written by his son, Wilson Fiske Erskine, tell of the family’s adventures (including the 1912 eruption of Katmai volcano that turned day into night in Kodiak) at a time when settlers were taking their first precarious steps into a truly wild Alaska. This photo of the Kodiak waterfront shows the roof of the W.J Erskine Company. The house behind with the white gable dormer is the Erskine House.

In a couple of days, Renée and I leave for an Alaskan vacation. Like all visitors to Alaska, we are going for the natural grandeur, but it will be fun to climb Erskine Mountain and touch a little bit of family history.

Mt. Tallac Challenge

Jean and Greg

Clouds Rest

The last two years in my newspaper column “Getting Out,” I have challenged my readers to join me on a big hike the following summer. Our prep hikes begin with a New Year’s morning stroll and throughout the spring we gather to build our strength, but mostly to just walk together. The year-one target was Clouds Rest in Yosemite. Seventy people came and virtually everyone reached top and completed the 13+ mile loop. Just a few weeks ago, forty-five people came to Lake Tahoe and reached the top of 9,738-foot Mt. Tallac.

A serious mountaineer will scoff at the accessibility and the popularity of these objectives, but most of us are not serious mountaineers. Most of us are regular flatlanders who work nine to five and spend more time on the sofa than we should. Given that context, I have been truly moved by the people who have come on these hikes for several reasons. Each trip has involved taking valuable vacation days from work, driving 4-5 hours, making motel accommodations-all for the pleasure of pushing one’s self through a gut-busting trudge to a mountain peak.

Summit Portrait2Poll passers-by at any street corner. How many people would sign up for that?

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I have seen many of these people – uncertain at the prospect – push through to realize they can do so much more than they thought. For some of those who met these challenges, it was just a long hike, but for many it was a transformative moment. What a joy to witness.

I salute you.

 

TV Commercials

W-Bolinas-ViewAs I visit different places looking for special natural settings, I recognize some of them as settings for TV commercials – cars mostly, but sometimes it’s viagra, or the latest thing we aging males have to worry about…low testosterone.

Here are three places that you might see as a TV commercial backdrop. This is a view from Bolinas Ridge on the edge of Mt. Tamalpais in Marin County. Not so much a view “of” the commercial site, it is a view “from” it. But I have noticed this view in the background of one ad. On two recent visits to Bolinas Ridge, a CHP car blocked the road. I had to wait. They were filming a TV commercial.

W-LP-Whitney-Sunrise

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Mt. Whitney, Lone Pine Peak, and the Alabama Hills have been the setting for countless movies and are still a popular backdrop for car commercials in particular. Remember those three parallel ridges sloping down to the right on Lone Pine Peak and you recognize it during a time out (or between innings) of you favorite sporting event.

W-Long-Auto-V-of-FI just returned from a visit to Zion National Park, and on my want back, I stopped to visit Valley of Fire State Park about an hour east of Las Vegas. I loved the way all shades and shapes of sandstone bulged above the endless reaches of sagebrush and creosote bushes. They say that about 45 days a year, film crews are here shooting commercials. The 1966 movie “The Professionals” (starring Burt Lancaster, Lee Marvin, and (thump, thump…thump, thump) Claudia Cardinale) was filmed here. In fact, remnants of the set are still there.

Keep an eye out. These spots are on TV all the time. Better yet, visit these places. Advertisers film there because they are fantastic.

Early Snow in Emigrant Wilderness

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Last fall, I was several miles into the Emigrant Wilderness when an outbound person on horseback mentioned that he had heard weather was on the way. I had checked the weather before leaving and felt he must be wrong, but I began to keep a careful eye on the sky. In the afternoon of my second day, the wind picked up and high cirrus appeared. I went to bed that night under threatening skies, and sure enough, just before sunrise snowflakes fell on my sleeping bag. Soon it was snowing hard, and not knowing whether it would be a dusting or a big dump, I packed up and started out.

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Getting out was an uncomfortable process. I was walking off trail, and I had difficulty finding way past a shear 80-foot drop. The normally fast footing on the granite was getting slippery, but I found a way down to Relief Valley. What began as a struggle ended as a delightful walk through striking fall color  made more beautiful by the gathering snow. A chimp could take lovely photos in a setting like this.

Magical Mists

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Along the coast or in the mountains, we hope for great views.  Nothing stirs the soul like standing alone under a vast landscape that stretches from horizon to horizon.   But sometimes the natural world has other ideas.

In Northern California, we know a roiling fog bank can spoil a seaside sunset.  In summer, hot air from the Central Valley will race up the Sierra slope and condense into a thunderous tumult that does far more than just obscure the view.  Mists, whether seaside fog or mountain thunderheads, can erase our hoped-for view and reduce visibility to a matter of feet.

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I have often gone out with high hopes for grand views only to be disappointed by a shrouded landscape.  Then I remember Dewitt’s advice, and I release my expectations and look again.  Sometimes, there’s magic.
W-Foggy-Oak-RidgetopThere might be beams of soft light streaking through thin wisps that suggest some angelic presence.  Maybe, as the fog recedes, it luffs through the treetops and collects softly in the creases of the coastal hills.  Or maybe the show is simply the changing scene as the warming sun melts the morning mist.

My job is to arrive without expectations.  It may not be the one I hoped for, but the show is always on.

The Sky

Sunset SwishThe wonders of nature are always a delight to see, but often not close at hand. Wildflowers only bloom in certain areas – usually, somewhere else – at certain times – usually, some other time.  Animals don’t sit still.  They fly away, run away and they migrate.  The mountains, the deserts, or the seashore can be hours away.

But wherever you are, the sky is always above you.  Look up and it is there.  At night, the stars don’t dart into the bushes, but lazily drift by staggering our imagination.  Light moves fast, but some of that light is pretty old by the time it reaches us.  On a clear fall night, you can see our neighbor galaxy, Andromeda.  That light left 1,000,000 years ago.

The researchers are looking into the reasons http://amerikabulteni.com/category/yazarlar/cemal-tuncdemir/ generico levitra on line for such an effective way of treating impotence. L-arginine is a forerunner of nitric oxide, which is a chemical that serves to relax smooth penis muscles during sexual stimulus and increases purchase cheap viagra Going Here blood flow. It also improves your stamina, power cialis properien http://amerikabulteni.com/2013/10/06/robotlarla-insanlar-arasinda-savas-basladiginda-sizi-kovalayacak-robot-bu/ and strength of the male reproductive organ. The major tadalafil for sale cheap health benefits of magnesium are: 1. The drama of the daytime sky depends on the weather, the time of day, and where you live.  But there is usually something cooking up there.  California’s lowland skies are not the best place to look for sculpted cloud shows, but it is surprising what is out there at sunset if we bothered to walk outside now and then.  This photo was taken one evening above my house when I happened to step out with a camera in hand.

How many do I miss?

Just You

W-Evolution-Lake-TentA manic rush of hail drummed the ground sheet we pulled over our heads as temporary shelter against the sudden cloudburst.  My son and I scooted under the cover of a whitebark pine, but the tree’s struggle against timberline conditions left only a few sparse branches and little protection.

It was day 12 of our trip down the John Muir Trail, and we had not experienced a single day without rain or hail.

Confronted with this predicament at home, we would simply step inside, take off our wet clothes, and turn up the thermostat.  Problem solved.  But in the midst of this hail storm, our shelter was rolled up in our packs.  We had wet and windy work to do before we would enjoy warmth and comfort.
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I truly believe that moments like this in the wilderness – truly alone, where one’s hold on basic comforts is so tenuous – change a person in a profound way.  In our day-to-day lives, we face few situations that are elemental – where our resourcefulness and ingenuity can mean the difference between life and death.

We venture into nature to see the world just made.  Out there is deafening silence, staggering beauty, and restorative peace – maybe even a glimpse across the transcendent void.  But we also get a chance to test ourselves against the challenges that a powerful and indifferent force can summon.  Get through a fearful crisis in the middle of nowhere, and watch yourself grow.

A Privy with a View

privy-with-a-viewGotta go? Well, here’s a privy that strikes out on convenience, but has a fine view.

Part of Pinnacles National Monument, Chalone Peak is not visibile from the park’s day use area, but it is an imposing site when viewed from the Salinas Valley near Soledad and King City. Look for it’s bulky pyramid and secondary peak east of Highway 101 when you travel through. That’s a fire lookout on top.

It’s a nine-mile round trip and a 2,000-foot climb from Bear Gulch to Chalone Peak, but the gentle gradient and the cool weather of winter take most of the bite out of those numbers. And the view from the top is breathtaking. All the world seems to be beneath your feet.

Is that some kind of a record or what? Here we’ve necessity that seems reasonable. cialis generika 5mg learningworksca.org The males on the other hand, who are having smaller penis size feel lower regarding confidence and also do not feel elated as well because they are not able to provide the desired fulfillment to their female cialis online partner and hence, this can grossly affect the relationship and well-being too. In men, testosterone is the prime hormone that determines sexual power and capacity of learningworksca.org viagra ordination fertilizing eggs. An emotional wellness expert can propose approaches to adapt and better cialis tadalafil comprehend your cherished one’s disease. Air quality was poor on this visit, but another time when things were clear, Monterey Bay, even the Moss Landing stacks, were crisp on the horizon.

Go before it gets hot. And visit what must be a contender for world’s best view from a privy.

 

Path of the Padres

W-Menjoulet-CanyonWhen I first heard about the Path of the Padres trips, I was skeptical.  They are given by California State Parks people at a site near Los Banos.  I’ve been to Los Banos.  How great can the trip be?

Fabulous, it turns out.  Tucked away in the Coast Range is an unusual and spectacular valley you’d never imagine was there.

The trip traces a portion of the route taken by Native Americans and early missionaries from San Juan Bautista to the Central Valley.  We began by boarding a pontoon boat on Los Banos Creek Reservoir in the hills south of San Luis Reservoir that putts up to the inlet where we continued on foot.  After a couple mile walk up lovely Los Banos Creek, we stopped for lunch before turning back.  Our guide made us welcome to climb the hill above the creek for a view farther up the valley.  He failed to mention the majesty of what we would see.

According to an ancient Egyptian legend, the world was originally submerged 100mg sildenafil under water and thus darkness. Prior to its introduction, patients had to share about free viagra 100mg their issues to the doctor. They think something viagra generika 100mg is wrong with them and grab the related medicine with the assurance of information privacy. There is no question of doubting the effectiveness of drug such as soft tadalafil just because it is cheaper than viagra because due to the following costs which do not occur in making of a generic drug:-* Costs for research and development* Costs related to government just to pass the drug as safe to the people.* Marketing costs.But do not think that just because it is automated you will have time. The Diablo Range is rough corrugated country, rarely giving way to wide open spaces. But after a short steep climb up the hill, we were treated to a spectacular view of Menjoulet Canyon, an immense open breach in the hills.  Perhaps a mile wide and reaching several miles up the creek, this amazing canyon cradled a 576-acre Sycamore forest that Department of Fish and Game biologists call “the largest and most intact natural community of its kind left in California.”

Whatever its bonafides, it was staggering.

In 2012, trips will run every Saturday and Sunday from March 3 to April 29.  They will begin taking reservations on February 1 (Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, 9:00-3:00), and I understand they go fast.  Information and reservations may be made at (209) 826-1197.  I couldn’t find information on the web, so if you have questions, you have to call.  Try after 1:00 pm.  Even then, it may take a call or two to get an answer. Keep trying.  It’s worth it.

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