On The Road – Deux

From Canyon De Chelly, we continued to Santa Fe then turned north and began zigging and zagging across the Continental Divide; ten crossings in all up through the rest of New Mexico, Colorado, and Wyoming. Sometimes when chasing fall color, you are told what surfers often hear, “You shoulda been here yesterday.” Not this time. The Cirque du Soleil of fall color was in town.

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Color was everywhere revealed in a variety of moods. Sometimes an uninterrupted brilliant yellow blanket; other times a broad slope among the conifers; occasionally a lone ribbon tracing a crease cut in a sagebrush crusted slope. So brilliant was the color, it seemed the aspen leaves were generating light, not reflecting it. 

In Aspen and Vail where we visited friends, farther north over Muddy Pass, around every bend, the color left us dumbstruck. It is hard to pick just a few, but here are some images  

On The Road

An array of motivations converged and led to a delightful road trip. Along with Charlie Hamilton, a long time friend and a perfect road trip companion, we set out with a to-do punch list that would be strung together with whimsy. Yes, we had stops to make—visit old friends, return to stomping grounds from our misspent youth, kick tires at possible relocation communities—but each day’s itinerary was decided over morning coffee. On top of that, we would be traveling the crest of the Rockies while the aspens were in full color. Plenty of reasons to be excited.

Charlie had never been to the Santa Fe area, so we planned to blaze through southern California and Arizona to New Mexico, then downshift and shuffle north in a more relaxed mode. But a place I had visited before leapt off the map and insisted we swing north for a short side trip. Canyon De Chelly, sacred Navajo land in eastern Arizona, is a scenic gem and the cite of some sad history. While the Grand Canyon is immense and incomprehensible, Canyon De Chelly has a mysterious intimacy that is transfixing. Under warm evening light, we peered down into the canyon from the rim, fully enrapt and free of extraneous thoughts, as though we were looking into a campfire.

The next morning, we descended into the canyon at the only location visitors are allowed without a Navajo guide: the White House Ruins. Not rough and tumble, the red rock there appears to have been finely smoothed and finished by a craftsman. The White House Ruins are only one set of cliff dwellings in the canyon left by the Ancient Puebloans centuries ago, but perhaps the most elegant.
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A superficial brush past a place that would take years to learn and fully appreciate, but the road calls.

  

The Winds

I have always been fascinated by stories of the fur trappers who ventured up to where the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin Rivers join forces to create the Missouri River. Until the discovery of South Pass, the Missouri River was the main thoroughfare to beaver country for John Colter, Jim Bridger, Jedediah Smith, and so many other mountain men. Read about any of these men and the Wind River Mountains figure prominently in their travels. 

Descending Fremont Peak

I have visited the Wind River Mountains in Wyoming twice, and on each trip the prevailing winds brought smoky air from wildfires ablaze in the northwest. But even murky air cannot dull the magnificence of this range. It is a Sierra-like landscape. Glaciers have scraped the range down to its bare granite bones leaving spectacular serrated peaks and easily navigable wide open terrain. Terrific. 
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This view over Island Lake looks toward Titcomb Basin. Looming on the horizon on the right is 13,751-foot Fremont Peak, first climbed by John C. Fremont on August 15, 1842. Several days later, we climbed the peak. We did not realize until months later that we were on the peak 170 years to the day after Fremont’s ascent.

If you backpack, put Titcomb Basin and the Winds on your bucket list. You will see plenty of folks on the trail, but once there, you can find solitude. 

Water

My friend, Dan, and I just returned from a trip to a region of the Sierra that he visits often but is new to me. A network of Forest Service roads honeycomb this area, a land dotted with granite domes that borders the southern boundary of Yosemite National Park. From the very end of Sky Ranch Road, we hiked across Chiquito Pass and descended the trail to the South Fork of the Merced River. From there, we left the trail and walked several miles down the river, then scrambled 1,300 feet back up to the road leading to the car.

Too lazy to carry my SLR, I brought my point-and-shoot camera to document the trip. If spring beauty were music, the sights on this walk would be a symphony orchestra. The river was rollicking with snowmelt, and a variety of flowers, enough to fill a field guide, colored polished granite with a kaleidoscope of color. The photos I returned with captured the beauty of the walk, but with little artistry. Except for this one. I kept coming back to it.
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This shallow slip of water curled with a simple elegance. The crystal clear water seemed to polish the granite slab beneath. The rolls and swirls of the current, traced with soft sinuous lines of the surface reflections, are a brief sensuous pause in the river’s flow before the plunge just ahead. 

Nothing Special

 


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Sometimes a photograph is not taken in a special place nor is it of a special subject or in a special setting. Yet it is a special image. I had no expectations when I shot this.  It was just there. But I find it leaves a lasting impression with me. There is as wistful evocative quality about it. I can’t put my finger on it, but I suppose I don’t need to. 

Sharper Vision

As I grow in my photography, few things bring more pleasure than abstracting some slice of a setting that I might have once overlooked. I have other images of Young Lakes on this evening that I captured as the light sunk low and grew warm, but they are wider.  It was hard to leave anything out. The entire scene was lovely; grand, softly lit granite peaks rose high above this carefully nestled lake.  But this lone shaft of light cast across three sapling lodgepole pines caught my eye. In front, the cool gentle lake reflection. Of course other joints of on sale at shop levitra prescription the body and quite literally slowly killing us. The moment in time order cialis without prescription when the deed of sexual exercise is finished, the blood will instantly circulation back again towards the penis and so erection goes away. Therefore the tightness and contraction I see in nine out of ten clients is actually the energetic patterning of family ancestry, current family patterns, environmental influences but also even more importantly the possibility of a huge manhood in levitra pharmacy purchase just 30 days… sometimes I’d be a little clumsy and delete some important emails in the process. Readings below 120/80 may be get cialis normal depending upon the clinical situation. Beyond, steep, rough granite cliffs. Peaceful, yet powerful, all coming together in an image I never tire of. Years ago, I would never have thought to pick it out and let it stand alone. 

Bennettville

I have visited Yosemite National Park enough to convince myself that there are few surprises left there for me, at least when it comes to day hike destinations. Wrong…again.

I had known of Bennettville, a ghost town dating back to the 1860’s, for a long time but had always driven passed the trailhead only promising to go there sometime soon. Although not strictly within the park boundary, Bennettville is just over the Sierra crest barely a chip shot from the Tioga Pass entrance. A few years ago, I spent several days in Lee Vining along with my friends Jean Blomquist and Greg Kepferle. We were part of a group there to hike up Mt. Hoffman a couple days hence and had come early to explore on our own. A perfect chance to finally visit Bennettville.

The walk to Bennettville and the ghost town itself are both pleasant, but unremarkable. Only two buildings remain in a cool rugged perch that opens to Mt. Dana in the distance. Mine tailings, a barred mine shaft, and abandoned rusty machinery testify to the long gone hubbub that is such a contrast to today’s stillness. Sadly, I am sure that once most hikers reach Bennettville, they turn back. We found that the ghost town is where the hike begins.

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Gentle beauty below, powerful peaks above. With each step, White Mountain filled more of the view ahead. I imagined what this east-facing setting would look like at sunrise. Right then, I promised I would return in the morning. 

With no headlamp or adequate flashlight, I thrashed a bit as I made my way through the darkness the next morning. And indeed, I got a nice photograph, but more than that, I got an unforgettable morning.

Lush Desert – Anza Borrrego Desert State Park

The wet winter of 2016-2017 was one of those that wildflower lovers long for. In California, when they come, the show is in the desert. Features on the CBS Evening News and NPR from Anza Borrego Desert State Park confirmed that the display was epic. Friends who had gone there in prior wet years returned with enthusiastic reports of jaw-dropping sights. I was not going to miss out this time.

I found an airbnb in Julian, only a one-hour drive from Borrego Springs, but as different as a landscape can be. At an elevation of 4,226 feet, Julian sits at the crest of the Cuyamaca Mountains that drain all the moisture from east bound storm clouds leaving little for Anza Borrego and the desert beyond. 

 

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Here are a few shots from that spot. It was lovely indeed, but such a vast park beckons a visitor to quieter corners. So, I ventured out, but a park this size is a feast that can only be weakly sampled on a three-day visit. In my next few posts, I will share some images of simpler beauty away from the busy loop road.  

Happening By

In my last post, I mentioned that the main key to getting a good photograph is just being out there and having your camera with you. This photo is a perfect example.

I was on the road early one morning bound for an Outdoor Writers Association of California conference. On the stretch of Interstate 680 between Benicia and Fairfield, I looked to my right and saw a lovely convergence of sunrise, wetland, and lonely farm buildings that called to me. The hardest part was getting off the busy stretch of highway and onto the frontage road.

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Maybe so, but nevertheless, I love the beauty.

Being There

Many years ago, I decided to nurture my basic interest in photography with a concerted effort to improve. After decades of reading and field seminars, my pictures have gotten better. Yet while I truly enjoy photography, in the end, it is one among a handful of avocations that I pursue only now and then…when I feel like it.

However hard a person works to become a better photographer, I still contend that the number one requirement for taking good photographs is simply being there (with a camera, of course). Often, when someone compliments me on a scenic photo, I respond with the comment, “In that spot, a chimpanzee could have taken a lovely picture.” And it’s true.

Never has that fact been more fully and unbelievably verified than in this photograph.

Our solar eclipse sojourn last August included a visit to Steens Mountain, a curious and isolated 9,738-foot peak in southeast Oregon’s high desert country. We were perhaps a third of the way along the 52-mile dirt road that traverses the mountain when we stopped at an overlook. Kiger Gorge is one of several classic U-shaped glacial valleys that descends the slopes of Steens Mountain. Even a view hampered by smoke from summer wildfires couldn’t diminish the immensity of the setting. The earth fell instantly and steeply away. The lip of the cirque was a crisp edge to a very deep and very broad valley cut by the long gone river of ice.
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As I scampered along the edge of the gorge with my camera, I looked to my left. “What the heck…?” A blond woman wearing a loose-fitting, full length, shiny bright fuchsia windswept taffeta dress stood on the edge of the cirque gazing down the valley. Well, of course. Happens all the time.

The amazing opportunity that such a juxtaposition presented trumped my usual shyness in such situations. Over I went. And while I did talk to her and her partner about taking her picture there, I took this one before I spoke to them. It is candid and not posed.

A short while later on the Steens Mountain road, we stopped to help the couple who were standing beside their disabled vehicle (a fancy high-clearance custom vehicle that looked like a cross between a Hummer and an RV). A transmission fluid leak couldn’t be stopped. Only our cell phone had service in this empty landscape. They called a tow truck in Burns, two and a half hours away. It was the young woman’s 40th birthday.

It was an adventurous day with a valuable photography lesson: When in the middle of nowhere, find a lovely woman wearing a full length fuchsia dress.

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